The best elk hunting boots [Gear Guide]

Boots are probably the most unique (and critical) piece of gear you will own.  The best elk hunting boots will always be the ones that fit your foot, full stop.  That said, there are literally thousands of options and it can be rather daunting to find the right ones to try.  Read the full guide to find the pair that’s perfect for you.

No piece of gear will make or break your hunt like boots.  It’s worth plenty of time (and money) to find the right ones.  I go very deep in the details in these Gear Guides, so I put my recommendations and a summary up top.  If you want to fully understand the “why” just keep reading!

My recommendations: the best elk hunting boots

I’ve done the research so you don’t have to.  If you want to know why I chose these boots, read the full guide below.

• Best elk hunting boots with medium support
  • Narrow/medium feet: Salomon Quest 4D 3 GTX
    • Good support, lightweight, synthetic/leather hybrid, Gore-Tex, a comfortable fit that works well for many, and widely available for a fair price.  Proven winners
    • The Solomon X Ultra 3 Mid GTX is great but has far less support if your foot can handle it
  • Medium/wide feet: No clear winner
    • No one boot stands out in this category from my experience
    • Some options (with limitations): Lowa Renegades (leather) or  Crispi Wyoming II (heavyish) are solid
• Best elk hunting boots for extra support or extreme terrain
  • Narrow/medium feet: La Sportiva Trango Cube
    • Solid support, ultra light, fully synthetic, Gore-Tex, comfortable, and used by our special forces.  My boot of choice but they are pricey (but often on sale)
  • Medium/Wide feet: Scarpa Charmoz
    • Very stiff, relatively light, fully synthetic, Gore-Tex, and fairly comfortable offering from a legendary boot company. 
    • Thor II from Crispi looks good but is relatively new.

How to pick the best elk hunting boots

Here’s a summary of what makes a great pair of elk boots before we get into the deep dive:

• Critical factors
  • Fit, fit, fit
    • How a boot fits your foot is by far the most important thing
    • Every brand uses a different last (foot mold) that dictates how their boots fit.  Your foot will only fit certain brands.
    • Try boots on at end of day since feet swell, and make sure to try them on with the exact socks and inserts you plan on using
  • Where you buy boots
    • You have to try boots on to know for sure.  
    • Big box stores often don’t carry stiff enough boots for elk hunting.  Try on pairs for different manufacturers (since their fit across models is generally the same) and special order other models from the store or online
    • Running stores are great at diagnosing your foot type (and you get good running shoes!)
  • Type (Support/Stiffness)
    • The support you need depends on your foot and the terrain/load you’ll be tackling.  No boot will do everything well.
    • There are roughly 5 types of outdoor shoes: Trail runners, day hikers, backpacking bookts, three season mountaineering, and rigid mountaineering.  
    • Elk hunters usually need backpacking/three season mountaineering boots.  Know your foot!
  • Weight
    • Minimizing weight on your feet is important since you lift your boots every time you take a step.  Lighter boots will take less energy to use.
    • More support = heavier boots.  Make sure to compare boots of the same stiffness/support
  • Waterproofing
    • The vast majority of elk hunters need a waterproof liner.  Gore-Tex is the gold standard since they offer a replacement warranty for leaks.
  • Sock system
    • Socks will make or break your boot!
    • Get merino socks, make sure to use a silk/merino liner socks, and use the thinnest sock you can
• Somewhat important factors
  • Price
    • This is the one area you shouldn’t skimp!  Boots will make or break your hunt.  A good pair will cost $150-$400.
  • Leather vs Synthetic
    • Leather boots stink: the don’t breathe well, they “wet out”, they shrink and expand, require lots of maintenance, and they’re heavy.
    • Synthetic materials are lighter, breathe better, and take no maintenance.  I highly recommend them unless you find a leather pair that fits better (but yes, leather will still work fine)
  • Sole pattern
    • Most manufacturers make grippy soles, even if they aren’t branded.  Just make sure there aren’t many negative reports.
• Not important factors
  • Boot height
    • Anything over ankle height will work just fine.  Higher boots do not offer more support, they’re heavier, and they’re more difficult to fit.
  • Gaiters
    • You don’t need gaiters for early season hunting unless you’re in very unique terrain.
  • Crampon compatibility
    • If you’re in compacted snow during archery season, you’re far too high.
  • Brand
    • Beware of marketing, there are lots of good brands and the only thing that matters is whether their boots happen to fit your foot.

Phew!  That’s just the summary believe it or not.  If you follow that advice I’m confident you’ll end up with a phenomenal elk boot.  Want to understand why?  Read on.

The deep dive: Critical factors for the best elk hunting boots

Let’s dive deep on the key factors that make a great elk hunting boot… don’t say I didn’t warn you!

Critical: Fit, Fit, Fit

If I can tell you one thing about boots it’s that they need to fit your foot well.  That means that even if your buddy loves them, the company sponsors someone cool, or they have the latest + greatest colors and tech, those boots you’re looking at are worthless unless they fit your foot.  Many guys get blisters, sore feet, or inflamed knees and think that’s just part of getting used to your boots.  While those things can happen, it’s pretty rare if you get a pair that truly fits you.

To understand fit you have to understand how boots are made.  Each manufacturer uses a unique “last” which is essentially just a mold of a foot.  They build the boot around the last and pull it out in the final stages of production.  That means that the fit of every company’s boots is totally unique! That also means that once you find a shoe that fits, the other shoes from the same manufacturer will tend to fit you as well (although some use multiple lasts for different models).  The takeaway: boots from certain manufacturers simply will or won’t fit your foot since they’re unique.

There are four critical types of foot measurements to help you find the best boot for elk hunting:

• Length
  • When you’re standing, make sure you have about 1/2 “ in front of your toe while standing so your toes don’t hit the front walking downhill.
  • No matter what they say, different companies sizes often don’t match. Try on at least 0.5 size up and down to know for sure.
• Width
  • Each manufacturer makes their own width of boots (that’s why some companies “run wide” or “run narrow”).  They call that size “D” (Standard fit) and sometimes will offer Wider (E to EEE) or narrower (C and B) boots, but it’s rare.
  • It’s very possible for boots to be narrow in one area and wider in another.  Again, you have to try them on.
• Volume
  • Even if you have two feet with the same length and width, one might take up more volume than another.  Generally a boot that is narrower works better with a low volume foot.
• Arch type
  • Foot arches can vary from flat arches all the way up to high arches.  The strength of your arch can lead to pronation or supination (inward or outward foot roll) which means you need a more or less supportive boot.  See the section on support for more.  

Unfortunately it’s pretty hard for you to take these measurements at home.  The best way to figure this out is to visit a store that has someone that really knows feet.  If you can’t do that you can always find a pair of street or running shoes that fit you well.  Simply tell the associate which brand and model it is over the phone or do a bit of Googling to “benchmark” that brand’s fit.  You can then use that information to find boot brands that also generally fit the same way.

A few other notes for trying boots on: first, always use the othotics/insoles and socks that you plan on using to try on boots… they change the fit drastically.  Second, make sure to try your boots on at the end of the day: your feet swell during the day (and during exertion) so that will be the right time to ensure they’re not too small.

Critical: Where to buy boots

Finding the best elk hunting boots starts with where you buy them.  Typical outdoor retailers like Dick’s, REI, or Cabelas usually don’t carry the stiffer boot types that many need for heavy loads and off trail situations that are common in elk hunting. 

However, if you don’t know much about your foot I highly recommend going somewhere in person to figure that out first.  You might be surprised but running stores are usually the most knowledgeable about foot types and fit (and you can pick up some running shoes in the process!).  Outdoor retailers are o.k. (it just depends on who you get) but the upside is that if you know boot brand X fits you then you can order their other models online since the sizing is generally the same.  

I only recommend online retailers if you know a lot about your foot type or if you have other pairs of boots that already fit you well.  Make sure to use a hunting specific company since they’ll have the best advice.  It can also pay to shop somewhere with a return guarantee since the only way to know for sure is to try a boot out.

Critical: Boot type (aka Support & Stiffness)

Speaking of fit, one of the biggest problems I see with hunters is not getting boots with the right amount of support.  The support you need depends on two things: your foot type and the terrain you’ll be using the boot in.  Before we dive in, know there are generally 5 types of hiking shoes:

• Trail running shoes
  • No/limited support and generally low rise with outsoles designed for traction.
• Day hiking shoes
  • Little to some support and generally designed for hiking trips (unloaded) or ultralight backpacking loads on smooth trails.  Can be low rise or mid rise.
• Backpacking boots
  • Medium support (half shank) that is designed for medium weight loads on moderate trails.  Generally mid to high rise.
  • These will work well for the majority of hunters
• Light duty / Three season Mountaineering
  • Stiff support (¾ shank) but still generally flexible enough for flat terrain.   Designed for heavy loads and off trail terrain.  Can be compatible with semi-auto crampons.
• Mountaineering/Rigid
  • Not for elk hunting.   Fully rigid (or close to it) and designed for snow, climbing, and crampons 

Most hunters will be comfortable in a backpacking style boot while many will flex up or down to a light mountaineering or day hiking shoe depending on their needs.  What dictates that is their foot strength and the terrain they’ll be using the boot in:

Generally speaking, flat feet, collapsed arches, and heavy pronators will likely need insoles or orthotics as well as extra stiffness in their boot.  Neutral feet generally don’t need as much support.  It’s important to let go of your ego here: this has to do with your inborn foot mechanics and not your fitness.  For example, I have decent pronation, completed an Ironman Triathlon, and… I’m still need foot support.  It’s very important to get yourself the support you need since not doing so can lead to injury.

Terrain also has a big influence on the correct boot stiffness.  The general rule of thumb is the softer the terrain, the stiffer the boot needs to be.  If you’re not backpacking or carrying heavy loads and tend to stick to flatter, on trail areas, you can get away with a pretty light boot.  If you carry a heavy pack, go off trail, and hike the steep terrain, a stiffer boot is the way to go.  You need to be honest here: no boot can do it all.  For example, I have a fantastic light mountaineering boots I use for elk season that work like a dream.  They actually give me blisters if I hike flat trails in California!  They’re simply too stiff for that type of terrain even if they’ve never given me a blister in elk country. 

To sum it up, start with a backpacking style boot.  If you have a strong foot and will be in mellower terrain you could go to a day hiker but don’t do that lightly.  If you need extra support or plan on hiking offtrail with heavy loads, take a look at a light mountaineering boot.  In general, it’s better to have a bit too much support in elk country than too little.

Critical: Weight

Boot weight is especially important since you pick boots up and set them down with every single step!  Multiple studies of runners have shown that 3.5 ounces is enough to cause a 1% loss of energy.  While running is a bit extreme, the concept is the same:  weight at the end of your foot matters far more than weight you’re carrying.  Trust me, you’ll notice the difference.

Lighter weight isn’t always a good thing because more support always adds mass to a boot.  The key is to use just enough support so you’re not lugging bricks around on your feet.  Make sure you’re comparing boots of a similar type when you’re comparing weights.  With that in mind, here’s a general guideline:

• Too heavy: 3.75 lbs or above per pair
  • There aren’t many excuses for boots this heavy since some truly stiff three season mountaineering boots come in at 3lbs for the pair. Pass.
• Good: 2.5-3.5 lbs per pair
  • Typical range for a lightweight three season mountaineering or backpacking style boot.  That support is worth every gram if you need it.
• Light: 2.5-1.75 lbs per pair
  • You’re pushing the edge of too little support with a day hiker or ultralight backpacking boot, but if you know your foot (and terrain) is a match it’s probably ok.
• Too light: <1.75 lbs per pair
  • These are pretty much trail runners or running shoes.  This is not going to go well unless you’re a world class athlete with perfect feet.

Critical: Waterproofing

You’ll hear different opinions here, but in general, a waterproof membrane is a really good idea for elk hunting seasons.  Temperatures in September usually aren’t high enough to dry out your boots and nothing ends a hunt quicker than cold, clammy, blistered feet.  Gore-Tex is the gold standard for a reason: they back up every pair of boots sold with their liners and will replace them if they leak during a certain time period.  Always make sure to test your boots in the bathtub well before you take them on a serious trip.

The downside of waterproof membranes is reduced breathability.  That’s why I recommend synthetic uppers (instead of leather).  Regardless of construction, make sure to always reproof or wash/maintain your boots if they need it.  When the external material soaks up water (called “wetting out”) the membrane can’t work, so you’ll get clammy feet. 

Critical: Sock System

Socks are the most underrated part of a comfortable boot.  A good sock system will prevent blisters, stop odor, and work for multiple days in a row (so you don’t have to pack extra pairs).  I have three strong opinions on socks:

• Use a Merino wool sock
  • Unless you love gagging when you take off your socks, merino is the way to go because it’s naturally odor resistant.  No, it won’t itch and they won’t be too hot (not usually a problem in September anyway).
• Use a liner sock
  • An ultra thin liner sock allows your outer sock to slide against your foot without friction.  No friction = no blisters!  These are a game changer and I won’t hike without them.  Use a merino or silk liner since they won’t stink.
• Use the thin socks
  • I know, I didn’t believe this either until I tried it.  Thick socks cause you to tighten down your boot more to keep your foot from moving.  That ends up restricting blood flow in your foot which means cold and painful feet!  A thin sock allows the tightest connection to your boot and lets your foot breathe more.

Regardless of what you choose, always make sure to buy your socks before you try on your boots (or at the same time).  Socks can really change the fit of your boot so you don’t want to switch them out later.

Somewhat Important factors

These are factors that might be important (depending on your situation) but aren’t critical to finding the best elk hunting boots:

Somewhat important: Price

If there is one place I encourage you to spend money, it’s here.  Price is always a factor in any decision but try your best to not let it control this one.  A good boot can run $150-$400 and will last many seasons if you only spend a week or two in the woods.  To put it another way, saving $100 on a boot that doesn’t fit will can easily ruin your $2000+ hunt.  Buy once, cry once.

When you find the brand or model you like make sure to monitor the price year round.  Boots usually go on sale near the end of the summer/fall and don’t change much year to year.

Somewhat important: Leather vs Synthetic

Let me just get this out of the way: leather boots stink.  Here are a few reasons why:

• They don’t breathe well
  • In theory leather is very breathable but after waterproof coatings, membranes, and pores full of dirt, they tend to lead to clammy, wet feet.
• They “wet out” easily
  • Waterproof coatings don’t last long on leather boots and they soak up water really quickly.  That means they’re heavier and don’t breathe.
• They shrink and expand
  • Ever try squeeze on leather boots on after a long time?  They also will expand and loosen over the course of your hike.  It’s annoying to constantly adjust them.
• They require maintenance
  • You’ll need to frequently oil or reproof your boots if you want leather to last
• They’re heavy
  • Leather is generally heavier than synthetics

So why are they still so popular?  Answer: history.  Leather has long been the best blend of durability, comfort, and cost since they tend to mold to your feet over time.  Boot makers got familiar with using it and don’t see many reasons to change.  And to be fair, up until recently there really haven’t been any good alternatives.  Leather will always have a precise fit (since they mold to your feet) but that’s no longer important for the majority of us.

That’s all changed with the rise of modern synthetic materials like nylon, thermoplastics, and abrasive resistant polymers.  Early synthetic versions weren’t exactly comfortable but that has changed as the industry has matured.  Modern synthetic outers are more breathable, more durable, lighter, and require little to no maintenance compared to leather.  Trust me, I’ve owned many pairs of boots made out of both types and you can notice a big difference.

So are all leather boots bad?  Not necessarily and you should always prioritize fit.  If you do have the choice I’d recommend synthetic uppers.

Somewhat important: Sole Pattern

While those Vibram soles sure do look cool (and to be fair, they are a mark of quality), you don’t really need the latest and greatest sole design for elk hunting.  In general the most common surface you’ll be hiking on is loose dirt.  Most boot lugs will do a good job digging into that even if they’re not a “name brand”.

If you’re concerned, do a bit of Googling to see what people are saying.  If grip is truly a problem you’ll hear about it.  As a side note, if you also intend to hike on lots of wet rock (aka sheep hunting) the rubber durometer (softness) and sole pattern do matter.

Factors that aren’t important

These are factors that really don’t matter unless you have a truly unique situation.  If someone tells you these are important for the best elk hunting boots, be skeptical:

Not important: Boot height

Many hunters grew up on 8” or taller boots and struggle to buy boots that don’t “look like an elk boot”.  Tall boots are heavier, take a ton of adjustment, breathe less, and often don’t fit as well since everyone’s calf is different.  A common myth is that they offer more “support” than shorter boots.  That’s simply not true anymore: modern materials have made is so that a short boot can as stiff as you need.

Any boot that goes over your ankle will provide plenty of protection and support for elk hunting.  Pay attention to what matters (sole stiffness) and don’t get distracted by a boot’s height.  Worried about getting things in your shoe?  I run ankle high boots and have never had a problem.  Check out the section on gaiters if you’re worried.

Not important: Gaiters

Boot gaiters can be fantastic things: they keep your pant legs dry, stop debris from getting in your boots, and (if they fit right) can make your lower leg completely waterproof for quick creek crossings.  That said, you really don’t need them for September elk hunting. Don’t trust me?  I own gaiters and I’ve used them in September…. never, even when it snows.

The exception to this rule is if you plan to hunt in October/November when snow is everywhere and very deep.  It also pays to have gaiters if you know you’re going to do some serious brush busting, but that type of undergrowth is relatively rare unless you’re coastal or far far North.

Not important: Crampon compatibility

You don’t need crampons unless you’re hunting goats or sheep where snow is present. If you can afford one of those trips you can likely afford another pair of boots that works well with semi-automatic crampons (don’t forget your ice axe!).  I’ve used them to hunt Tahr in New Zealand, and they’re glorious, but they’re dead weight everywhere else.

Not important: Brand

Oh man, now is when it pays to be independent and unsponsored.  Like we mentioned above, fit is everything.  If you choose a boot based on brand you’re taking a gamble on whether their boot last actually fits your foot… so don’t fall for it.  

Brands do exist because reputation is important.  I can’t think of any “all bad” boot brands off the top of my head and it’s probably not nice to point those out anyway.  Follow the guidelines above and you’ll find great boots from many good manufacturers.

Tips & Tricks

Make sure to always “break in” your boots!  Actually “breaking in” the materials was more critical in the era of leather and most synthetic boots work well out of the box.  However, even if the boot is a perfect fit, your foot might need time to adapt to it.  Make sure to test them in steep terrain and with heavy loads… otherwise you’ll effectively be breaking in your feet during your elk hunt, which ain’t good.

Don’t leave boots near a fire.  It will never dry them out enough and melting your boot will end your hunt almost instantly.

Make sure to always take an extra shoelace or paracord/string with you. A broken shoelace can be a serious ordeal.

Summing it up: the best elk hunting boots

Always remember that the best elk hunting boots are the ones that fit your foot and unique requirements. I’m always happy to provide advice, so drop me a line below if you have any questions!